When it comes to handmade shoes, few materials compare to the timeless elegance and durability of leather. Leather has been the cornerstone of fine shoemaking for centuries, prized not only for its strength but also for its ability to mold to the foot and age beautifully. However, not all leather is created equal. From texture and finish to tanning method and animal origin, the type of leather used can dramatically influence the final product.
In this guide, we’ll walk through the most popular types of leather used in handmade shoes, what makes each unique, and how to choose the best type for your needs.
1. Full-Grain Leather
Overview:
Full-grain leather is the highest quality leather available. It comes from the top layer of the hide and includes all of the natural grain. Unlike other types, it is not sanded or buffed to remove imperfections.
Why it’s used in handmade shoes:
- Extremely durable and strong
- Ages beautifully, developing a rich patina over time
- Breathable, allowing moisture to escape
- Natural imperfections add character
Best for: High-end dress shoes, boots, and timeless everyday wear.
2. Top-Grain Leather
Overview:
Top-grain leather is slightly lower in quality than full-grain. The surface is sanded and a finish coat is added to remove imperfections, making it look more uniform.
Why it’s used in handmade shoes:
- More stain-resistant than full-grain
- Offers a smoother and more polished appearance
- Slightly more affordable
Best for: Formal shoes where a clean, sleek look is desired.
3. Suede
Overview:
Suede is made from the underside of the hide, resulting in a soft, napped texture. It lacks the toughness of full- or top-grain leather but offers a unique feel and aesthetic.
Why it’s used in handmade shoes:
- Luxuriously soft and flexible
- Ideal for casual and stylish designs
- Lightweight and breathable
Downsides:
- Less water-resistant
- More prone to staining and scuffing
Best for: Loafers, chukka boots, and relaxed casual styles.
4. Nubuck
Overview:
Nubuck is similar to suede but is made by sanding or buffing the outer side of the leather (as opposed to the inner side, like suede). This gives it a velvety feel but with more durability.
Why it’s used in handmade shoes:
- Offers a soft touch like suede but with better toughness
- Rich, matte appearance
- Ages well when properly cared for
Best for: Casual and semi-formal shoes with a luxurious finish.
5. Patent Leather
Overview:
Patent leather is leather that has been coated with a high-gloss finish. It’s less breathable but delivers a striking, mirror-like shine.
Why it’s used in handmade shoes:
- High visual impact
- Easy to clean
- Perfect for formal occasions
Best for: Tuxedo shoes, dress loafers, and formal oxfords.
